Tag: travel

A Wendover Will postcard from the 1950’s

I love neon, so when I was offered an opportunity to read an advance copy of the 3rd Expanded Edition of Neon Nevada by Sheila Swan and Peter Laufer I said ‘yes’.  Shelia and Peter have been exploring and documenting the neon scene in Nevada since the 1970’s, with this newest edition of their work, published by University of Nevada Press, available October 24th.  The book is equal parts history, travel monologue, visual homage, and love story spotlighting the magic of neon.

Neon lighting first became popular in the States in the 1920’s and as the couple writes, were ‘”…the pre-World War II television: it could sell anything and it did.”  While neon signs appeared on storefronts and theater marquess across the country, these electric jewels came into their own in the desert towns of Nevada.  In their travels across the state, the authors visit Wendover, Reno, Laughlin and everywhere in between in their quest to locate artful pieces, capturing their beauty for posterity. The book is full of pictures which span the decades, paying tribute to signs that no longer exist or capturing images of restored faded beauties from the past.

These are nighttime travels for the couple, when ‘the desert night sky and two lane roads, punctuated with occasional neon signs, create a mood unique to Nevada’.  I felt their disappointment when they found old favorites gone without a trace, or frustration at finding a gem lying in a state of neglect, no longer able to light up the night sky.  At other times, I celebrated with them as they located old signs restored to their former glory or discovered new ‘special glows in the night’ blazing away.

Creating neon signs turns out to be something of a lost art.  There are few masters of glass bending still practicing the craft.  It’s expensive and labor intensive and takes years to master.  Making one minor mistake during the bending process might mean the entire piece has to be scrapped and started again. In Reno, the authors were thrilled to see work created by Jeff Johnson of Neon Art NV.  They reminisce about two of the most iconic neon signs ever made: the ‘Welcome to Las Vegas’ and ‘Vegas Vic’ signs. These pieces were made by Young Electric Sign Company (aka: YESCO), who have been creating signs which light up Vegas and the desert for close to a century.

The authors also recognize the important work done by The Neon Museum of Las Vegas. ‘The two acre Boneyard is now filled with relics on loan from YESCO’s graveyard along with pieces collected and owned by the museum – more than 250 signs dating from the 1930’s, most in an advanced state of decay’. For lovers of neon, seeing the old masterpieces safe, even when they need restoration, is comforting.  These signs are symbols connecting us to the past, with rich stories that go far beyond the product they once advertised.

I thoroughly enjoyed Neon Nevada and recommend it to anyone interested in neon, southwest travel, or an endearing love story.  I sense this is the couple’s last neon road trip, so it’s a poignant way of paying tribute to their love for neon, and for each other.

*On Broadway – The Drifters